Companion dog

The Pomeranian started out as a large, sled-type dog and was downbred to become the small companion dog it is today.

Companion dog usually describes a dog that does not work, providing only companionship as a pet, rather than usefulness by doing specific tasks. Many of the toy dog breeds are used only for the pleasure of their company, not as workers. Any dog can be a companion dog, and many working types such as retrievers are enjoyed primarily for their friendly nature as a family pet, as are mixed breed dogs. The American Kennel Club also offers a Companion dog title for judged dog obedience competitions.

Working vs. companion

Some people and breed groups argue that any dog of a working dog type is inherently a working dog, while others say that only a dog being actively worked, either in a related field such as water trials for retrievers or herding trials for herding dogs, or in some other field that requires training and discipline, such as being assistance dogs or participating in dog agility, can be considered a working dog.Dogs that have been chosen for traits that make a convenient pet are generally smaller breeds, and the tradition of keeping pretty dogs for no purpose other than to be court decorations stems back thousands of years to Chinese nobility. The Pekingese and the Pug are both examples of canines chosen for their ability to be pets. In the case of the Pekingese, it was for their lion-like demeanor; for the Pugs, it was for their "lucky" wrinkles and their monkey-like impish behavior.

Other dogs that appear to be strictly a decorative or entertaining toy type of dog originally had jobs, such as the Lhasa Apso's job as a watch dog, or the delicate Yorkshire Terrier's exceptional ratting abilities.Until the late 19th century, toy dogs were strictly the keep of the wealthy, especially royalty, where small, charming dogs that did not work for their food were pure status symbols. Many, like the Maltese and the King Charles Spaniel, were often used as gifts between royal houses as well, as a symbol of good will. Small dogs like these got their name of lap dogs because the warm effect of a dog on one's lap was considered beneficial to one's health and digestion. Indeed, the 15th century name for companion and toy type dogs was "comforters".

In the late 19th century, some dogs were being bred for the combined purpose of being hardy and also being a good companion to children and families, rather than to refined ladies and men, as was the original task of the first companion dogs. Old breed types like the spaniels took over roles as house pets, as well as new breeds like the Boston Terrier. Though dogs and children always had a certain attraction to each other, there was an increased interest in the middle and even working classes for companion dogs that would chum around with their youngsters. This increased throughout the 20th century, where a dog breed's reputation as being a good family pet was a main barometer to their popularity. With increased popularity for dogs being used solely for family companionship, the first large breed companion dog, the Alsatian Shepalute, was created in 1988 in the United States.

Now in the 21st century, fewer and fewer dogs are being kept solely for the purpose of working. Indeed, some breed groups for dogs like Golden Retrievers worry that they are being bred more for conformation showing and companion dogs than as working dogs, and are encouraging people to work with their pets rather than simply keeping them for their good looks. There is a rising popularity for smaller companion breeds, especially in the USA. This trend is partly attributable to endorsement from celebrities such as Paris Hilton, who accessorize with "pocket dogs".

However among the top 50 breeds of dog the Hunting or large breed non-companion dogs still outnumber the smaller companion breeds in terms of numbers of dogs AKC registered each year(1). Additionally, within the top ten dogs registered each year positions 1, 2, 4, 5 and 7 as well as part of 8 (Standard Poodles) are held by working, hunting, or large non-companion breeds (for year 2005)(1). This suggests that many people still view large working dogs as companions as well as workers capable of excelling at both tasks instead of only one. The phenomena is repeated to an even greater extent in the UK kennel club (2), with most of the top twenty positions held by large or hunting breeds (2).

Australian Shepherd Color & Temperament

Color

Color variants: Black tricolor, red merle, blue merle, liver tricolor.

Aussie colors are black, red (sometimes called liver), blue merle (marbled black and gray), and red merle (marbled red and silver or buff); each of these colors may also have copper points and/or white markings in various combinations on the face, chest, and legs. A black or red dog with copper and white trim is called tricolor or tri, a black or red dog with white trim but no copper is called bicolor or bi. White should not appear on the body of the dog from topmost point of the shoulder blade to the tail. The ears should be covered by and completely surrounded by pigment other than white to decrease the risk for white related deafness. Eyes should also be surrounded by color, including the eye rim leather. Excessive white on the face and ears can place an individual dog at greater risk for sunburn and subsequent skin cancer. The wide variation of color combinations comes from the interaction between the a color allele, which is either black (B) dominant or red (b) recessive, and the dominant merle allele (M). Together, these provide four coat-color aspects that can appear in any combination:

• Black Tri, with tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Solid black dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Red (Liver) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Red dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Blue Merle (a mottled patchwork of gray and black) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Merle dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Red Merle (a mottled patchwork of cream and liver red) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Merle dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.

The merle allele, which produces a mingled or patchwork combination of dark and light areas, is the coat pattern most commonly associated with the breed. This merle (M) is dominant so that affected dogs (Mm) show the pigmentation pattern; however, when two merles are bred, there is a statistical risk that 25% of the offspring will end up with the two copies of the merle gene (homozygous). These dogs usually have a mostly white coat and blue irises, and are often deaf and/or blind. In this case, the deafness and blindness are linked to having two copies of the merle gene, which disrupts pigmentation and produces these health defects.

All black and blue merle dogs have black noses, eye rims, and lips. All red and red merle dogs have liver or brown noses, eye rims, and lips.

Red merle with copper points and one brown eye and one blue eye. Blue merle with copper points with blue eyes

There is also great variety in the Aussie's eye color. An early nickname for the breed was "ghost-eye dog". Aussie eyes may be any shade or hue of brown, or blue; they may have two different colored eyes, or even have bicolored or "split eyes" (for example, a half-brown, half-blue eye), which appear to be linked to the merle coloration. Merled eyes occur as well, where one color is mixed in and swirled with another. Any combination of eye color is acceptable in the breed standard, so long as the eyes are healthy. In general, however, black Aussies (self, bi-color or tri-color) tend to have brown eyes, while red (self, bi-color or tri-color) Aussies tend to have amber eyes, though these Aussies may also carry the blue eyed gene.

Tail

A hallmark of the breed is a short bobbed or docked tail in countries where docking is permitted. Some Aussies are born with naturally short bobbed tails (NBT), others with full long tails, and others with natural partial bobs, where the tail is midlength and appears stubby. Breeders have historically docked the tails when the puppies are born. Even without a tail, the wagging movement of the hind end still occurs.

Some Australian Shepherd breeders try to keep the tail on the dog for the natural look, which can still be shown in the breed ring.

Temperament

The breed is an energetic dog that requires exercise and enjoys working, whether it is learning and practicing tricks, competing in dog agility, or any other physically and mentally involving activity.

Dogs may show reserved and cautious guarding behaviors. They are kind, loving, and devoted to those they know. They are very loyal to their owners, and are rewarding dogs if treated well. Because the breed was developed to serve on the ranch, a job which includes being protective of its property, it is inclined to bark warnings about neighborhood activity, but it is not an obsessively barking dog.

The Aussie is intelligent, learns quickly, and loves to play. This means that a bored, neglected, unexercised Aussie may invent its own games, activities, and jobs, which to a busy owner might appear to be hyperactivity: for example, an Aussie may go from being at rest to running at top speed for several 'laps' around the house before returning to rest. Without something to amuse them, Aussies can become destructive. Aussies also do best with plenty of human companionship: they are often called "velcro" for their strong desire to always be near their owners and for their tendency to form intense, devoted bonds with select people.

The Australian Shepherd has a reputation as a highly intelligent and versatile stock dog with a range of working styles. A good working Aussie is quick, thoughtful, and easy with its stock. The ability for the breed to adapt to the situation and think for itself makes it an excellent all-around worker. For this reason the Aussie is often chosen to work unusual livestock such as ducks, geese, and commercially raised rabbits.

The Australian Shepherd can become extremely destructive if their energy is not directed in a positive way. These dogs require a minimum of 2-3 hours a day of play, exercise, and attention. The dogs thrive in rural, ranch like conditions, and need space to run and play in an urban setting.

Australian Ssepherd

History

The Australian Shepherd's history is vague, as is the reason for its misleading name. It is believed by some the breed has Basque origins in Spain and was used there by shepherds. What is known is that it developed in western North America in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

An Australian Shepherd from working lines; early breeders chose dogs for their abilities rather than conformation.

Breeds as we know them today did not exist before Victorian times, but local variations of the ancestors of current breeds came into America along with their owners and livestock. Included are some that are now extinct or that have merged into other breeds. These may have included British herding dogs, as well as dogs from Germany and Spain. For many centuries, shepherds had interest in dogs' working abilities rather than their appearance. As a result, over time, shepherds interbred dogs that they believed would produce better workers for the given climate and landscape. In the eastern U.S., terrain and weather conditions were similar to that of Europe, however, so the existing imported breeds and their offspring worked well there.

In the American West, conditions were quite different. During the early introduction of sheep into America, the Spanish dogs that accompanied the flocks proved well suited for their job in the new, wild and dangerous land. They were highly valued on the open range for their ability to herd and protect their charges from predators. In the arid and semiarid areas inhabited by early Spanish settlers, temperatures reached extremes of hot and cold, and fields varied in altitude from sea level to the higher, rougher Sierra Nevada and similar mountain ranges. The ranchers in these areas often pastured livestock on remote ranges. They preferred more aggressive herding dogs that served in the capacity of herder and guardian.

With the 1849 California Gold Rush, a massive migration occurred to the west coast, and along with easterners came flocks of sheep and their eastern herding dogs; from the southwest came people and Spanish. But it was just as effective to bring sheep in by ship, and in they came, including flocks from Australia and other regions, along with shepherds and their own herding breeds.

Dogs from Australia had already begun to be selected and bred for climates and terrains that were often similar to California.

It is not clear where the name "Australian" came from, although it is possible that many of the dogs coming from Australia were blue merle and the adjective "Australian" became associated with any dogs of that coat color.

Recent history

Development of the breed began in Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Nevada and the Pacific Northwest. The breed's foundation bloodlines are depicted in the Australian Shepherd Genealogy Chart showing the relationship between the early families of dogs.

Selective breeding for many generations focused on aspects of the dog that enabled it to function as an effective stockdog in the American west. It had to handle severe weather; have plenty of speed, athleticism, energy, and endurance; and be intelligent, flexible, and independent, while remaining obedient. The actual foundation for the Australian Shepherd was established between the 1940s and the early 1970s, when the Australian Shepherd Club of America was formed and the registry was started. They became popular as performing dogs in rodeos. Their stunts and skills earned them places in several Disney films, including Run Appaloosa Run and Stub: The Greatest Cowdog in the West.

Activities

A blue merle in a dog agility competition

Like other herding breeds, these dogs excel at many dog sports, especially herding, dog agility, frisbee, and flyball. The dog has a stride in which its front and back legs cross over, making for an appearance of "on the edge" speed. The dogs instinctively use a "pounce" position to deal with cattle trying to kick them. They also have strong hips and legs, allowing for fast acceleration and high jumping, sometimes as high as 4 ft (1.3m).

An Australian Shepherd about to jump for a frisbee

An Australian Shepherd named Pockets is credited as being the oldest dog to earn a title in AKC history, having earned the Rally Novice title at the age of 15 years, 5 weeks.

Australian Shepherd

Australian Shepherd: BREED BOX Country: United States Size: 35-70lb(16-32kg),18-23in(46-58cm) Temperament: Loyal Grooming: Once every couple of weeks Recognition: FCI,AKC,ANKC,KC (UK),CKC,UKC

History - Although the name implies otherwise, the Australian Shepherd did not originate in Australia. According to popular speculation, the breed began in the 1800’s when the Basque people from Europe settled in Australia. The Basque brought with them their sheepdogs. Over time, the Basque migrated to North America and the breed caught on with the American farmers. Many cross-breedings were undertaken before the best of the breed was produced; a dog able to endure the rough terrain and inhospitable climate while herding livestock.

Because of the dog’s high energy level and intelligence, they found their way into the entertainment field and started working rodeos as trick dogs. Today, you can find Australian Shepherds working with clowns under the big top delighting audiences worldwide.

Appearance - The Australian Shepherd is a medium sized dog. He is well balanced, slightly longer than tall and comes in all colors. Breed standards allow for blue eyes or one blue and one brown eye or marbled eyes in the red and blue variety.

Description - The Australian Shepherd is happiest when he is working at herding. This is what he was bred for. Many people, who are taken by this breed and try to get the dog to conform to apartment life, end up with a dog with behavior issues, because this dog needs to work. If you are considering an Australian Shepherd for your home or apartment, you also need to include Obedience classes, and perhaps an agility training course.

With their strong herding instincts, Australian Shepherds will herd small children and other pets. But given the right set of circumstances; an active, stimulating life. The Australian Shepherd will prove himself a tireless match against restless livestock and will be completely devoted to his master.

This dog will not do well being placed in exile inside a kennel or a backyard. The Australian Shepherd is a true pack animal, and he needs either human or canine companionship. Otherwise, he becomes withdrawn and lethargic.

The Australian Shepherd comes in various colors, and the coat is spotted, with patches of darker color running through it. The legs are usually brown or beige.

Ideal Owners: The Australian Shepherd is suited to familes with active children, or owners who have the time to go for a run with their dog

Coat Color: Red, Liver, Blue-Merle, Black

Life Expectancy: 13 years

Australian Shepherd Picture

Cat Care

Cats make wonderful pets. Before owning a cat, you should make sure to have a basic understanding of how to take care of a cat. Proper feeding, bathing, grooming and exercise of your cat are very important and will help your cat live a long and happy life.

There are a number of cat care tips we recommend for optimal cat care:

Feeding

• Provide your cat with a fresh supply of water throughout the day.
• If you make a change to your cat's diet, do so as gradually as possible.
• If moist pet food goes uneaten for two hours, refrigerate it.

Bathing

• Place a small towel over the side of the tub to provide a surface for your cat to cling onto. Hold the cat with one hand and lather with your other hand.
• Water temperature should be approximately 100 degrees.
• Wash your cat's head, ears and neck first to prevent any fleas that are on your cat from taking refuge there while you clean the rest of it's body.

Grooming

• Brush your cat daily to minimize shedding.
• For problems with matted fur, use your fingers to work out the tangles.
• Trim claws by pressing the paw to expose the nails. Make sure to use clippers for cats.

Here are a few additional cat care tips for you to keep in mind:

Care of Your Cat's Ears

Cleaning your cat's ears should be done weekly. Doing so will ensure your cat stays healthy and happy for years to come. Use a small amount of veterinary ear cleaner and a cotton ball.

Care Of Your Cat's Eyes

The wax-like secretions that forms in the corner of their eyes should be gently cleared away to prevent irritation. Use a damp cotton ball to clean around the cat's eye. Take extra care not to touch the eyeball.

Exercise

Exercise is an important part of cat care. Regular exercise helps your cat maintain body tone, muscle and keeps it feeling younger longer. Try to play with your cat every day to make sure it gets enough exercise.

Proper cat care is a very important component of responsible cat ownership. We hope these tips are helpful to you and that you are now better familiar with how to take care of a cat.

Things to Consider Before You Adopt a Dog

"Select" is defined in the dictionary by such phrases as "a preferred choice" or "carefully chosen". Selecting the family dog should be a well-researched and carefully soul-searched activity. Are you and your family willing to make a 10 - 15 year commitment to this sentient being in sickness and in health, for richer and for poorer, for as long as all shall live? Let's pose some of the questions family members should discuss before obtaining a dog.

How Old Are the Members of My Family?

If the youngsters in your household are under seven years old, they are usually not developmentally suited for puppies 5 months old and under or toy-sized (under 15 pounds) dogs of any age. Puppies have ultra sharp "milk teeth" and toenails and often teethe on and scratch children, resulting in unintentional injury to the child. The puppy becomes something to be feared rather than loved.

Toy dogs are fine-boned, touch-sensitive creatures that do not weather rough or clumsy handling well. They break relatively easily and are quicker to bite than their larger boned, mellower relatives.Unless your children are unusually sensitive, low-key, respectful individuals, a medium-to-large sized dog over 5 months old is usually the safer choice. Regardless of size, all interactions between small children and dogs should be monitored by a responsible adult. When there is no one to watch over them, they should be separated.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, are there frail elderly or physically challenged individuals in the household? If so, strong vigorous adolescent dogs are not a wise idea. No aging hips or wrists are safe from these yahoos. People who were one-breed fans throughout their lives may one day find that their favorite breed demands more than they can physically handle. The new dog must fit the current physical capabilities of his keepers with an eye toward what the next 10-15 years will bring.

Who Will Be the Dog's Primary Caretaker?

A decade or so back, this was an easy question to answer-- Mom. She stayed home and cooked, cleaned and raised the family dog. Most families these days do not have that option. All adults have to go to work and the kids head off to school. This leaves the family dog to be sandwiched in between lessons and sports and household chores and so on. One parent should be designated Primary Caretaker to make sure the dog does not get lost in the shuffle.Some parents bow to the pressure their children put on them to get a dog. The kids promise with tears in their eyes that they will religiously take care of this soon-to-be best friend. The truth of the matter is, during the 10 - 15 year lifespan of the average dog, your children will be growing in and out of various life stages and the family dog's importance in their lives will wax and wain like the Moon. You cannot saddle a child with total responsibility for the family dog and threaten to get rid of it if the child is not providing that care. It is not fair to child or dog.

Choosing the family dog should include input from all family members with the cooler-headed, more experienced family members' opinions carrying a bit more weight. The family dog should not be a gift from one family member to all the others. The selection experience is one the entire family can share. Doing some research and polling each family member about what is important to them in a dog will help pin down what you will be looking for. Books like Daniel Tortora's THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU or The ASPCA Complete Guide to Dogs can be tremendously helpful and can warn you away from unsuitable choices for your family's circumstances.

Getting a Tick Off of Your Dog

If your dog spends time outside in areas where ticks like to hang out, a tick check should be part of your daily routine.Even the best repellents may not prevent these parasites from latching onto your pooch. And since it can take 24 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit an infection to its host, it's important to promptly and properly remove these parasites.

Check, please!

First, run your fingers slowly over your dog's entire body. If you feel a bump or swollen area, check to see if a tick has burrowed there. Don't limit your search to your dog's torso: check between his toes, under his armpits, the insides of his ears, and around his face and chin.Don't limit tick checks to your canine family members. Dogs can't directly transmit tick-borne illnesses to people, but ticks can move from host to host. A tick may enter your home on your dog's back and move on to another pet or human, or a tick could hitch a ride on you and then move on to one of your pets. A good tick prevention strategy includes checking all family members for these parasites, especially after outdoor activities in wooded, leafy, or grassy areas.

Is it a tick?

Ticks can be black, brown, or tan, and they have eight legs. Ticks are arachnids and related to spiders, not insects. They can also be tiny—some tick species are only as large as the head of a pin—so look carefully.In some areas of the United States where there is no real winter, ticks are active all year, not just in the summer months. Even in areas where there has been a killing frost with the approach of winter, ticks can become active again if the weather turns warm for more than a day or two.

If you find a tick on your dog, don't panic! Follow these quick and easy steps to safely remove the pest.

Step 1: Get your gear

• Pair of gloves
• Clean pair of tweezers or a commercial tick remover
• Antiseptic
• Isopropyl alcohol

Step 2: Remove the tick
Wear gloves while removing the tick to avoid contact with your skin (ticks can transmit diseases to people, too).

If you're using tweezers:

• Grasp the tick as close to your dog’s skin as possible, but be gentle! Try not to pinch your dog's skin.
• Pull outward in a straight, steady motion, making sure that you’ve removed the entire tick, since anything left behind could lead to an infection.

If you're using a tick remover:

• Gently press the remover against your dog's skin near the tick.
• Slide the notch of the remover under the tick.
• Continue sliding the remover until the tick is caught in the small end of the notch and is pulled free. (The tick will remain in the bowl of the remover.)

Step 3: Store the evidence

Drop the tick into a small container that contains isopropyl alcohol (the alcohol will quickly kill the tick), and mark the date on the container. If your dog begins displaying symptoms of a tick-borne illness, your veterinarian may want to identify or test the tick

Allergies to Pets

The benefits of having a pet usually outweigh the drawbacks of pet allergies for many people. You'd be surprised to know how many people, with non-life-threatening allergies, live with pets despite having allergies to them!

It's not you, it's me

Any and all cats and dogs may cause reactions for people who are allergic to animals. Cats tend to cause more reactions than dogs for allergic people, although some people are more sensitive to dogs than cats. Contrary to popular belief, there are no "non-allergenic" breeds of dogs or cats; even hairless breeds may cause symptoms.Dogs with soft, constantly-growing hair—like Poodles or the Bichon Frise—may be less irritating to some individuals, although this may be because they are bathed and groomed more frequently. One dog or cat may be more irritating to an individual allergy sufferer than another animal of the same species.

What to do

If someone in your household has been diagnosed with a pet allergy by an allergist, carefully consider whether you can live with the symptoms before you bring a new pet home. Except in the case of children, who sometimes outgrow allergies, few people with allergies become accustomed to pets to whom they are allergic. Too many allergic owners obtain pets without thinking through the challenges of living with allergies.If your or a family member's allergies are simply miserable, but not life-threatening, take these five steps to reduce the symptoms:

1. Create an "allergy free" zone in your home—preferably the allergic person's bedroom—and strictly prohibit the pet's access to it. Use a high-efficiency HEPA air cleaner, and consider using impermeable covers for the mattress and pillows.

2. Use HEPA air cleaners throughout the rest of the home, and avoid dust-and-dander-catching furnishings such as cloth curtains and blinds and carpeted floors. Clean frequently and thoroughly to remove dust and dander, washing articles such as couch covers and pillows, curtains, and pet beds.

3. Bathing your pet on a weekly basis can reduce the level of allergy-causing dander (shed old skin cells). Cats can get used to being bathed, but it's critical to only use products labeled for them; kittens may need a shampoo safe for kittens. Check with your veterinarian's staff or a good book on pet care for directions about safe bathing, It's a good idea to use a shampoo recommended by your veterinarian or other animal care professional.

4. Don't be quick to blame the family pet for allergies. Ask your allergist to specifically test for allergies to pet dander. Many allergy sufferers are sensitive to more than one allergen. Reduce the overall allergen level in your environment by concentrating on all of the causes, not just the pet allergy.

Why is Puppy Socialization and Training Important?

So you've made a decision to get a puppy, you have evaluated your choices of breed and are ready to bring your puppy home. This is a commitment and one that should be happy and loving for everyone involved. When your puppy is not trained or socialized that relationship becomes strained and begins to lose its fun. Over the course of your dogs life it will meet many people and other animals, it'll be exposed to people walking their dogs, bike riders, baby strollers, other dogs and cats as well as situations that may cause stress and fear so it is necessary to begin puppy training to socialize them and keep them and you happy and healthy.When a puppy is not trained it begins to form its own habits based on its environment. Some of these habits may turn into negative behaviors like being protective of food and toys, growling at strangers or even biting them, fighting with other dogs, urinating and defecating in the house, begging at the table and other bad habits that could have been avoided with puppy training.

Puppy training can begin with the breeder. Puppies 8-12 weeks are particularly absorbent when it comes to training. Even at birth they have instincts that kick in and begin to learn how to interact with their litter mates, mother and people who handle them. As they grow they go through an imprinting stage when puppy training is more easily accepted. There are four main commands that every puppy should be taught. They are sit, stay, come and no. It is important to keep puppy training and socialization experiences positive. Introducing your puppy to people is a good way to start the socialization and is fairly easy. After all, who doesn't like a puppy?By introducing new people, places, things and other animals to your puppy you can prevent a lot of negative behaviors that may develop over time. Through puppy training and socialization, your puppy should learn that you are dominant over them. They should be friendly towards those who you let into your home and not be afraid of them (particularly people with beards and hats). You should be able to take food, toys and dangerous objects out of their mouths. They should not be fearful or aggressive. They should be comfortable on a leash. They should be housebroken. They shouldn't suffer from separation anxiety and understand that you will come back. Puppy training your pet to be confident while you are away, not to chew on people or destroy property, to come when called and stay when needed among other things will help to keep your sanity.

Puppy training is important to start your relationship out on a good note and keep a better bond between you and your dog for many years to come. Puppy training is essential to your dogs care and the training should continue and be reinforced throughout their lives. Puppy training and socialization is also important in keeping your dog happy, healthy and safe. When they know how to react to certain situations there is less of a chance for a negative incident to occur.

The Job of Calcium in Your Dog's Diet

When we consider calcium, strong teeth and bones come to mind. Your dog's diet should be rich in calcium to support healthy teeth and bones, but a fine balance exists in correlation to calcium and your dog's diet.
It is achievable to have too much or too little calcium in your dog's diet. When a dog's diet contains too little calcium, your dog may cultivate a state referred to as rickets. This condition creates soft bones that bow under the weight of your dog.
In contrast, too much calcium can generate bone abnormalities, as well. Big breed dogs, for example, who are given too much calcium as puppies in their diet, will build up large bones that are low in density. Strength is a problem with such bones due to the large amount of calcium supplements.
When your dog's diet contains proper levels of calcium, such bone abnormalities occur rarely. This is just one more reason to cautiously decide on an appropriate diet for your dog. Always consult your veterinarian to settle on the best quantity of calcium in your dog's diet.
Calcium plays an important job in your dog's diet, but other vitamins and nutrients work hand in hand with calcium. Some minerals are interdependent. Calcium happens to be one of such mineral nutrients.
Calcium works in sync with phosphorus. A balance of the two nutrients calcium and phosphorus must be present in a healthy ratio to make sure a dog diet that will make the most of the potential advantages for your pet. Studies involving animal nutrition show that a ratio of 1.0 to 2.0 parts calcium should be coupled with 1.0 part phosphorus. When calcium and phosphorus ratios vary greatly from this range, bone issues result.
Dog diets consisting solely of meats will not supply the proper quantity of calcium and phosphorus to make healthy bones. Such a diet results in a ratio of about 1.0 part calcium to 18 parts phosphorus. The range of absorption is where the problem starts.
Vitamin D is another nutrient that influences the absorption of calcium and phosphorus. If a dog's diet lacks the appropriate amount of vitamin D, the other nutrients will not provide all the benefits to your pet. Excessive amounts of vitamin D can have negative effects on your dog. It is imperative to sustain appropriate levels of vitamin D in your dog's diet. Again, feeding your dog food from a reputable company will allow you trust in knowing that your dog's diet is healthy.
During pregnancy or when your dog is nursing, elevated levels of calcium are essential in your dog's diet. At this time, feed your pet additional amounts of a balanced dog food. You should not have to supplement your pet at this time.
Milk fever, or eclampsia, cannot be avoided with calcium supplements. Eclampsia is not a nutritional deficit, but a metabolic condition that affects the dog once the pups have been born and start nursing.
Stay away from supplementing your dog's diet with calcium or other nutrients without specific dialogue with your vet. When calcium, for example, is out of balance, health can truly be effected harmfully. Feeding your dog a balanced diet is critical. Reputable dog food companies have researched animal nutrition to make certain the best possible health for your dog. Providing your dog's diet in a nourishing, balanced formula can be the best approach to take care of your pet.

Skunk, Veterinary Care

Baby skunks from the pet store generally have not had any medical treatment other than scent gland removal, and will require spaying or neutering, shots, and worming. They will need to be tested for coccidia and other protozoa as well as parasites. Skunks also need to have regular yearly checkups. Dr. Frank Krupka and Skunk Haven have developed a blood panel to show if supplements or changes in diet are needed, and recommend a blood panel as part of a yearly check up.

Veterinary understanding of skunks is rather limited, since scientists have not conducted as much research on skunks as they have on more common pets. Skunks do not always respond to medicines the same way as cats or dogs. As a result, there is considerable disagreement about how best to treat them. Some veterinarians say they are in the hamster family and treat them as such. However, Hamsters are from the Rodent family while Skunks are in their own family the Mephitidae which is unrelated.

There are several different pet skunk organizations giving out conflicting advice on skunk care. Particularly in the medical realm, it is wise to consult multiple sources rather than rely on any one source of information from the Internet.

Spaying/neutering: Males should be neutered between 3 and 4 months of age. Females should be spayed between 4 and 6 months of age.

Vaccinations: Most skunk organizations recommend Purevax Distemper and Rabies vaccinations. Only distemper has been shown to cause disease or illness in skunks. Other vaccinations created for dogs and cats are modified live vaccinations and may cause actual illness in skunks.

Declawing: Skunks should not be declawed, since they use their claws to handle food. Instead, their claws should be trimmed occasionally. Skunks have "digging" claws like dogs, as opposed to "ripping" claws like cats.

Roundworms: Many skunks have died from roundworms. Baylisascaris columnaris is the species that infests skunks most commonly. Baylisascaris eggs can remain viable in the environment for many years, despite hot or freezing weather or certain harsh chemicals.

Skunks can be infested with roundworms for several weeks before eggs begin to be shed in feces. It is common for new skunks to have roundworms, which may be too early in development to be detected by fecal tests. Skunk experts agree that all new skunks need to be treated for roundworms, and that more than one treatment is needed. Diagnostic Parasitologist Matt Bolek recommends that "A deworming program should probably start at 7-8 weeks of age and deworm biweekly for 3-4 treatments".

The frequency with which adults need to be treated for roundworms is controversial:

* Skunk Haven as well as skunk expert Mary Kaye Ashley and ADSA, Inc. recommend: "After the first series of wormings, you should worm every 4-6 months".
* Owners of Pet Skunks recommends "over the counter worm medication given every couple of months and a yearly stool sample check at the vet".
* Skunk expert Jane Bone recommends that all skunks be wormed once a month. However this information is dated and is no longer believe to be the best method of controlling parasites in skunks. Deworming should be done as needed and not on a routine basis due to certain parasites and worms becoming resistant to the dewormers.

The consensus is that Evict or Nemex 2 are good over-the-counter wormers for skunks. A veterinarian may have more powerful wormers. Safe, natural alternatives include seeds from cantaloupe, fig juice or cloves, according to Jane Bone.

General considerations

Overall, caring for skunks is more complicated and challenging than raising other pets. The difficulty in finding a veterinarian with experience treating skunks, the conflicting advice offered by different pet skunk organizations, and the scarcity of scientific knowledge about skunk physiology make it necessary for many skunk owners to fend for themselves. In addition, some skunks - especially those that were mistreated - may bite, refuse to use a litter box, or exhibit other negative behaviors, according to Jane Bone and Skunk Haven.

According to James Furniss, a good skunk owner needs to be a do-it-yourselfer and willing to put in a lot of effort. There are, however, relocation options if a pet skunk does not work out, including skunk shelters.

Skunk care

Handling skunks

Skunks are a mixture of personalities and much like a cat when first introduced. Much like a dog, they require much handling and maintenance.

The more you gently handle and fondle your baby skunk, the more docile it will be when it grows up. The more you hold and talk to a baby skunk, the more love will come your way from this skunk as it grows. More homes have been cleaned, meals prepared or football games watched with a baby skunk snuggled inside a T-shirt tucked into a waistband than you could ever imagine. Being this close to you, the baby skunk will learn that it is great to be part of your family as you protect it and calm it down, feeling warm and wonderful all over that you are its new Mom or Dad!

To play with a baby pet skunk, it is possible to get on one's hands and knees, and playfully tap the floor with the fingers of one hand, while moving the hand toward the skunk. They quickly get the idea, and will respond with a sort of cat-like rearing up and coming down on their front feet. However, as they make their move, they will be looking you straight in the eyes, while aiming, with tail raised high, their potent "weapon" directly at your eyes simultaneously. (They do the same in the wild when threatened.)

It is better to avoid playing rough with baby skunks, or they may become aggressive as they get older. Bare hands can be used for loving and cuddling the skunk, but a stuffed toy or hand puppet should be used when playing with them due to their sharp teeth and extremely long fangs.

Spanking or hitting a skunk is not recommended, since it will cause them to become vengeful. Discipline should be in the tone and volume of voice. A squirt from a spray bottle may be helpful.

Housebreaking

Most skunks can be housebroken by corner training. After they choose a corner, a litter pan with unscented litter can be placed there. If the skunk misses the litter pan, after cleanup, the area should be saturated with plain white vinegar to remove the scent, so that they will not return to that spot. After the skunk's bathroom has been established, it can be moved about four inches a day to a different location. The skunk may or may not follow. If he doesn't, it may be necessary to give in, let the skunk have that corner, and block the view with a chair or bookcase placed in the corner or some other decorative idea.

For covered cat litter boxes, it will probably be necessary to cut a larger opening for the skunk.With any litter pan, bear in mind that regular cleaning is necessary since skunks will avoid a dirty bathroom.

Some owners have reported that their skunk could not be corner-trained or taught to use a litter box, according to Skunk Haven's Deborah Cipriani.

Letting skunks outside by themselves is risky since, like ferrets, they lack a homing instinct and can easily get lost.Descented skunks lack their most powerful defense against predators such as coyotes and foxes. Their nearsightedness also makes them susceptible to becoming roadkill.

Diet

Skunks need a wider variety of food than most pets. They tend to have a voracious appetite, making obesity a common problem.[14] It is important not to overfeed them. Some types of food, such as chocolate, are known to be harmful to almost all animals.

The topic of what to feed skunks is very controversial, according to Owners of Pet Skunks.Mary Kaye Ashley's book, A Comprehensive Guide to Raising a Pet Skunk, recommends a ratio of 50 percent vegetables, 40 percent Skunkie Delight, and 10 percent other whole foods. Skunkie Delight is a blend of a cooked grain (millet, oats, barley, or brown rice), raw ground turkey, eggs, vegetable oil, and a variety of vitamin and mineral powders.Since it is not available commercially, the owner has to mix it.

Jane Bone's Skunk Stuff describes a diet of vegetables, fruits, dairy, yogurt, vitamins and minerals, fiber, carbohydrates, and eggs.Skunk Haven disagrees with this diet, and recommends their own sample diet.Skunk expert Mary Kaye Ashley, as well as the American Domestic Skunk Association, Inc. also disagree with this diet.

Eugie and Matthew Foster have tried a lacto-ovum vegetarian diet with good results, with rice and beans with yogurt, cottage cheese, the occasional boiled egg, and unsalted peanuts for protein needs, and including nutritional yeast, cold-pressed safflower oil, and various vitamin supplements (including taurine and D-3) in addition to vegetables and fruit.

Lynnda Butler, president of Florida Skunks as Pets, believes a small amount of sugar can be beneficial for skunks and recommends an eighth of a graham cracker or vanilla wafer a day. Others (e.g. Skunk Haven) eschew feeding skunks processed sugar altogether, citing the risk of diabetes. Skunk expert Mary Kaye Ashley, as well as the American Domestic Skunk Association, also strongly disagree with the feeding of any form of processed sugar products. Per Ms. Ashley, natural sugars (such as a small amount of fruit) can be included in the diet several times a week provided that the skunk does not suffer from hypoglycemia or diabetes. The choice of diet is ultimately up to the skunk owner.

Though with the complexity of skunkie delight creating it your own home can be more harmful to the skunk. If you do not get the nutrients just right the skunk could suffer serious health issues. Most veterinarians will recommend a high quality ferret diet and a mixture of vegetables each day, with treats of dairy, nuts, eggs and other high calorie foods. By giving them as treats, weight is easier to control.

Skunks generally do not drink a great deal of water, but clean water should always be available.

Pet skunk

A pet skunk is a skunk kept by humans for companionship and enjoyment. Although capable of living indoors with humans similarly to dogs or cats, pet skunks are relatively rare, partly due to restrictive laws and the complexity of their care. Pet skunks are mainly kept in the United States, Canada, Germany, the Netherlands, and Italy.

In the United States, pet skunks can be purchased from licensed animal shelters, non-profit skunk educational organizations such as the American Domestic Skunk Association, Inc., or breeders with a permit from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service. Baby skunk availability peaks during springtime, immediately following the skunk mating season. Some large fur farms sell surplus skunks to pet stores.

Skunks are probably best known for their ability to spray foul-smelling fluid as a defense against predators. Most wild skunks spray only when injured or attacked, as a defense mechanism. The mercaptan-emitting scent glands (commonly referred to as "the stinker") are usually removed in pet skunks at about four weeks of age.


History


Skunks are native to the Americas and are noted in historical accounts of Christopher Columbus. Skunks were reportedly kept as pets by some Native American nations. Farmers valued domesticated skunks for their ability to kill rodents and other pests. Skunk pelts were also used for coats and frequently passed off as marten fur. Before the 1950s, they were sold under ambiguous names such as "American sable" and "Alaskan sable". The courts finally ruled that the customer must be informed of any purchase that contained skunk parts. The skunk fur market subsequently collapsed. Since then, skunks have been mainly bred as pets.

In the 20th century, most U.S. states outlawed the keeping of wild animals as part of their efforts to stem the spread of rabies. Only about one-third of states continued to allow domestic skunks. In the 1990s, skunk enthusiasts began establishing mailing lists and organized for skunk law reform. In the 2000s, similar initiatives took place in Canada.


Temperament


Skunks are sensitive, intelligent animals,and like all intelligent animals, temperament varies for each animal. Skunks tend to be highly curious. Skunks will open cupboards that are left unlocked. Skunks also tend to be very friendly, loving, entertaining and playful. However, they can also be stubborn and headstrong. Some owners have noticed skunks smelling something that was spilled on the carpet long ago, and attempting to dig to find out what is buried there. Like ferrets, their curiosity can lead them into danger, especially if they crawl inside reclining chairs or other machinery.Due to the complexity of their care, and the negative image of skunks as foul-smelling animals, many people will not keep a skunk as a pet.

One of the things that you might keep in mind is that skunks are (naturally) nocturnal... sleeping during the day and prowling and foraging at night. It may be that, if raised domestically from a very young age, that instinct may not develop... but, unlikely if you've come by one that was raised in the wild. Those raised in the wild also make great pets but, can become a bit testy if you keep them up to play during the day and they don't develop the desire to sleep at night. So, take that into consideration. It's very hard to teach an old skunk new instincts.

Pet cemetery

A pet cemetery is a cemetery for animal.

In addition to burying human remains, many human cultures also regularly bury animal remains. This is often necessary for hygienic reasons when the body cannot be disposed of in another way.

Pets and other animals of emotional significance are often ceremonially buried. Most families bury deceased pets on their own properties, mainly in a yard, with a shoe box or any other type of container served as a coffin. The Ancient Egyptians are known to have mummified and buried cats, which they considered deities.

The Romans had very similar ways of dealing with pet loss. Expansive parcels of land would be set aside for large stone monuments dedicated to the owner’s pet. Alexander the Great, a famous pet lover of his time, dealt with the loss of his pets in this way.

The Cimetière des Chiens in Asnières-sur-Seine in Paris, is an elaborate, sculpted pet cemetery believed to be the first zoological necropolis in the world.

In 1978, filmmaker Errol Morris directed a film about pet cemeteries called Gates of Heaven.

Burial options


For private burial, typically both single or multiple plots options are available. A specially designed pet casket would be used and possibly a vault depending on the strength of the casket structure.

In cremation, the animal would be placed in the crematory alone. Only and all of the pet's cremated remains are returned to the owner. The remains can be saved in an urn, buried, or scattered.

In a memorial cremation, several pets are cremated together. The resulting cremated remains are then scattered on the cemetery grounds.

In most cases pet cemeteries will have a chapel, and there will be facilities to hold either a non-denominational Christian or, alternatively, a non-religious ceremony.

In January 2010, West Lindsey District Council gave permission for a site in the village of Stainton by Langworth where animal remains can be inerred alongside human remains as part of a "green burial" site, making it the first place in England where pets could be buried alongside their owners.

Pet food

Pet food is plant or animal material intended for consumption by pets. Typically sold in pet stores and supermarkets, it is usually specific to the type of animal, such as dog food or cat food. Most meat used for non-human animals is a by-product of the human food industry, and is not regarded as "human grade."

Four companies—Procter & Gamble, Nestlé, Mars, and Colgate-Palmolive—are thought to control 80 percent of the world's pet-food market,[1] which in 2007 amounted to US$ 45.12 billion for cats and dogs alone.



Contents



* 1 Industry
* 2 Fish food
* 3 Bird food
* 4 Cat food
* 5 Dog food
* 6 Raw feeding
* 7 Human food for animals

Industry

Cat and dog food sales exceeded £1.4 billion in the United Kingdom[3] and US$14.3 billion in the United States in 2005.[4] In 2006 the value of the UK pet food market rose to just over £1.6 billion.[5] The leading exporters of pet food for 2004 were France ($993 million), United States ($786 million) and the Netherlands ($511 million).[6] while the leading importers were Japan ($718 million), Germany ($617 million) and the UK ($563 million).

Fish food

Fish foods normally contain macro nutrients, trace elements and vitamins necessary to keep captive fish in good health. Approximately 80% of fishkeeping hobbyists feed their fish exclusively prepared foods that most commonly are produced in flake, pellet or tablet form.[8] Pelleted forms, some of which sink rapidly, are often used for larger fish or bottom feeding species such as loaches or catfish.[citation needed] Some fish foods also contain additives, such as beta carotene or sex hormones, to artificially enhance the color of ornamental fish

Bird food

Bird food are used both in birdfeeders and to feed pet birds. It typically consist of a variety of seeds. Not all birds eat seeds. Suet (beef or mutton fat) is recommended for insect-eating birds like nuthatches and woodpeckers. Nectar (essentially sugar water) attracts hummingbirds.

Cat food


Cats are obligate carnivores, though most commercial cat food contains both animal and plant material supplemented with vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. Cat food is formulated to address the specific nutritional requirements of cats, in particular containing the amino acid taurine, as cats cannot thrive on taurine-deficient food.

Dog food

There are many different recommendations on what diet is best for dogs. Some people argue that dogs have thrived off of leftovers and scraps from their human owners for thousands of years and that commercial dog foods (which have only been available for the past century) contain poor-quality meats, additives, and other ingredients dogs should not ingest, or that commercial dog food is not nutritionally sufficient for their dogs. Most store-bought pet food comes in either dry form, also known as kibble, or wet canned form.


Raw feeding


Raw feeding is the practice of feeding domestic dogs and cats a diet primarily of uncooked meat and bones. Supporters of raw feeding believe that the natural diet of an animal in the wild is its most ideal diet and try to mimic a similar diet for their domestic companion. They are commonly opposed to commercial pet foods, which they consider poor substitutes for raw feed. Opponents believe that the risk of food-borne illnesses posed by the handling and feeding of raw meats would outweigh the purported benefits and that no scientific studies have been done to support the numerous beneficial claims.


Human food for animals


Prepared foods and some raw ingredients may be toxic for animals and care should be taken when feeding animals left-over food. It is known that the following foods are potentially unsafe for cats and dogs:

* Chocolate, coffee-based products and soft drinks
* Raisins and grapes
* Canned tuna
* Macadamia nuts
* Onions and garlic

Generally cooked and marinated foods should be avoided as well as sauces and gravies which may contain ingredients that although well tolerated by humans, may be toxic to animals.

Pet first aid courses

Pet first aid courses are available to pet owners and people who work with pets. Many pet related businesses that involve looking after pets require staff to be trained in pet first aid.

Pet first aid courses are designed to equip pet owners with the information and skills needed to assess the situation, administer the appropriate care, or stabilize an injured pet until qualified veterinary care can be obtained. The course stresses preventive care (avoiding illness and injuries). Students usually learn the importance of immediate medical attention following an injury, how to properly restrain an injured animal, and the following:

* Preventing Illness and Injury
* Restraint and Transportation
* Shock
* Internal and External Bleeding
* Wounds and Infections
* Poisons
* Artificial Respiration and Airway Obstruction
* Abdominal Thrusts (Heimlich Manoeuvre)
* Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR)
* Administering Medications
* Parasites
* Eye and Ear Injuries
* Injuries from Heat and Cold
* Bone and Joint Injuries
* Dealing with Grief
* How to assemble a complete pet first aid kit

DOMESTICATED CATS

Cats are a common companion animal in Europe and North America, and their worldwide population exceeds 500 million. In 1998 there were around 43 million cats in Western Europe, 33 million in Eastern Europe, seven million in Japan and three million in Australia. A 2007 report stated that about 37 million US households owned cats, with an average of 2.2 cats per household giving a total population of around 82 million. This is slightly more than the 72 million pet dogs in that country.[181] Although cat ownership has commonly been associated with women, a 2007 Gallup poll reported that men and women were equally likely to own a cat. The ratio of pedigree/purebred cats to random-bred cats varies from country to country. However, generally speaking, purebreds are less than ten percent of the total population.
A cat pelt.

According to the Humane Society of the United States, as well as being kept as pets, cats are also used in the international fur trade. Cat fur is used in coats, gloves, hats, shoes, blankets and stuffed toys. About 24 cats are needed to make a cat fur coat. This use has now been outlawed in several countries, including the United States, Australia and the European Union. However, some cat furs are still made into blankets in Switzerland as folk remedies that are believed to help rheumatism.

It has long been common for cats to be eaten in some parts of China and in some other Asian countries. According to the Chengdu Business Daily, people in southern China's Guangdong province ate 10,000 cats a day. Animal People estimates that 4 million cats are killed and consumed in Asia every year.


Domesticated varieties


The concept of a cat breed appeared in Britain during the late 19th century. The current list of cat breeds is quite large: with the Cat Fanciers' Association recognizing 41 breeds, of which 16 are "natural breeds" that probably emerged before humans began breeding pedigree cats, while the others were developed over the latter half of the 20th century. The owners and breeders of show cats compete to see whose animal bears the closest resemblance to the "ideal" definition and standard of the breed (see selective breeding). Because of common crossbreeding in populated areas, many cats are simply identified as belonging to the homogeneous breeds of domestic longhair and domestic shorthair, depending on their type of fur. In the United Kingdom and Australasia, non-purebred cats are referred in slang as moggies (derived from "Maggie", short for Margaret, reputed to have been a common name for cows and calves in 18th century England and latter applied to housecats during the Victorian era). In the United States, a non-purebred cat is sometimes referred to in slang as a barn or alley cat, even if it is not a stray. Cats come in a variety of colors and patterns. These are physical properties and should not be confused with a breed of cat. Some original cat breeds that have a distinct phenotype that is the main type occurring naturally as the dominant domesticated cat type in their region of origin are sometimes considered as subspecies and also have received names as such in nomenclature, although this is not supported by feline biologists.

CAT PLAY AND REPRODUCTION

Play


Domestic cats, especially young kittens, are known for their love of play. This behavior mimics hunting and is important in helping kittens learn to stalk, capture, and kill prey. Cats will also engage in play fighting, with each other and with humans. This behavior may be a way for cats to practice the skills needed for real combat, and might also reduce any fear they associate with launching attacks on other animals.

Due to the close similarity between play and hunting, cats prefer to play with objects that resemble prey, such as small furry toys that move rapidly, but rapidly lose interest (they become habituated) in a toy they have played with before. Cats also tend to play with toys more when they are hungry. String is often used as a toy, but if it is eaten it can become caught at the base of the cat’s tongue and then move into the intestines, a medical emergency which can cause serious illness and death. Due to the risks posed by cats eating string, it is sometimes replaced with a laser pointer's dot, which cats may chase. While concerns have been raised about the safety of these lasers, Professor John Marshall, an ophthalmologist at St Thomas' Hospital, has stated that it would be "virtually impossible" to blind a cat with a laser pointer.

Reproduction



When cats mate, the male tom bites the scruff of the female's neck as she assumes a position conducive to mating.

Female cats are seasonally polyestrous, which means they may have many periods of heat over the course of a year, the season beginning in January or February and ending in late October. Heat periods occur about every two weeks and last about 4 to 7 days. Multiple males will be attracted to a female in heat. The males will fight over her, and the victor wins the right to mate. At first, the female will reject the male, but eventually the female will allow the male to mate. The female will utter a loud yowl as the male pulls out of her. This is because a male cat's penis has a band of about 120-150 backwards-pointing spines, which are about one millimeter long; upon withdrawal of the penis, the spines rake the walls of the female's vagina, which is a trigger for ovulation. After mating, the female will wash her vulva thoroughly. If a male attempts to breed with her at this point, the female will attack him. After about 20 to 30 minutes, once the female is finished grooming, the cycle will repeat.

Because ovulation is not always triggered by a single mating, females may not be impregnated by the first male with which they mate.[148] Furthermore, cats are superfecund; that is, a female may mate with more than one male when she is in heat, with the result that different kittens in a litter may have different fathers.
A kitten with newly-open eyes.

The gestation period for cats is between 64–67 days, with an average length of 66 days. The size of a litter averages three to five kittens, with the first litter usually smaller than subsequent litters. Kittens are weaned at between six and seven weeks, and cats normally reach sexual maturity at 5–10 months (females) and to 5–7 months (males), although this can vary depending on breed.[146] Females can have two to three litters per year, so may produce up to 150 kittens in their breeding span of around ten years.

Cats are ready to go to new homes at about 12 weeks old, or when they are ready to leave their mother. Cats can be surgically sterilized (spayed or castrated) as early as 7 weeks to limit unwanted reproduction. This surgery also prevents undesirable sex-related behavior, such as aggression, territory marking (spraying urine) in males and yowling (calling) in females. Traditionally, this surgery was performed at around six to nine months of age, but it is increasingly being performed prior to puberty, at about three to six months. In the USA approximately 80% of household cats are neutered.

CAT HEALTH

In captivity, an average life expectancy for male indoor cats at birth is 12 to 14 years, with females usually living a year or two longer. However, there have been records of cats reaching into their 20s and 30s, with the oldest known cat, Creme Puff, dying at a verified age of 38.Having a cat neutered or spayed confers some health benefits, since castrated males cannot develop testicular cancer, spayed females cannot develop uterine or ovarian cancer, and both have a reduced risk of mammary cancer.The lifespan of feral cats is hard to determine accurately, although one study reported a median age of 4.7 years, with a range between 0 to 10 years.

DISEASES


Cats can suffer from a wide range of health problems, including infectious diseases, parasites, injuries and chronic disease. Vaccinations are available for many of these diseases, and domestic cats are regularly given treatments to eliminate parasites such as worms and fleas.

POISONING


In addition to obvious dangers such as rodenticides, insecticides and weed killers, cats may be poisoned by many chemicals that are usually considered safe.This is because their livers are less effective at some forms of detoxification than those of other animals, including humans and dogs.Some of the most common causes of poisoning in cats are antifreeze and rodent baits.It has also been suggested that cats may be particularly sensitive to environmental pollutants.When a cat has a sudden or prolonged serious illness without any obvious cause, it is therefore possible that it has been exposed to a toxin.

Human medicines should never be given to cats. For example, the painkiller paracetamol (also called acetaminophen), sold under brand names such as Tylenol and Panadol is extremely toxic to cats: even very small doses can be fatal and need immediate treatment.Even aspirin, which is sometimes used to treat arthritis in cats, is much more toxic to them than to humans and must be administered cautiously.Similarly, application of minoxidil (Rogaine) to the skin of cats, either accidentally or by well-meaning owners attempting to counter loss of fur, has sometimes been fatal.Essential oils can be toxic to cats and there have been reported cases of serious illnesses caused by tea tree oil, and tea tree oil-based flea treatments and shampoos.

Other common household substances that should be used with caution around cats include mothballs and other naphthalene products.Phenol-based products are often used for cleaning and disinfecting near cats' feeding areas or litter boxes: such as Pine-Sol, Dettol (Lysol) or hexachlorophene,but these can sometimes be fatal. Ethylene glycol, often used as an automotive antifreeze, is particularly appealing to cats, and as little as a teaspoonful can be fatal.Some human foods are toxic to cats; for example theobromine in chocolate can cause theobromine poisoning, although few cats will eat chocolate.Large amounts of onions or garlic are also poisonous to cats.Many houseplants are also dangerous,such as Philodendron species and the leaves of the Easter Lily, which can cause permanent and life-threatening kidney damage.

CAT GENETICS

Cat genetics

Blue-eyed cats with white fur have a high incidence of genetic deafness.

The domesticated cat and its closest wild ancestor are both diploid organisms that possess 38 chromosomes and roughly 20,000 genes. About 250 heritable genetic disorders have been identified in cats, many similar to human inborn errors. The high level of similarity among the metabolisms of mammals allows many of these feline diseases to be diagnosed using genetic tests that were originally developed for use in humans, as well as the use of cats in the study of the human diseases. An interesting example of a mutation that is shared among all felines, including the big cats, is a mutant chemosensor in their taste buds that prevents them from tasting sweetness, which may explain their indifference to fruits, berries, and other sugary foods. In some breeds of cats congenital deafness is very common, with most white cats (but not albinos) being affected, particularly if they also have blue eyes. The genes responsible for this defect are unknown, but the disease is studied in the hope that it may shed light on the causes of hereditary deafness in humans.

Since a large variety of different coat patterns exist within the various cat breeds, the cat is an excellent animal to study the coat genetics of hair growth and coloration. Several genes interact to produce cats' hair color and coat patterns. Different combinations of these genes give different phenotypes. For example, the enzyme tyrosinase is needed to produce the dark pigment melanin and Burmese cats have a mutant form that is only active at low temperatures, resulting in color appearing only on the cooler ears, tail and paws. A completely inactive gene for tyrosinase is found in albino cats, which therefore lack all pigment. Hair length is determined by the gene for fibroblast growth factor 5, with inactive copies of this gene causing long hair.

The Cat Genome Project, sponsored by the Laboratory of Genomic Diversity at the U.S. National Cancer Institute Frederick Cancer Research and Development Center in Frederick, Maryland, aims to help the development of the cat as an animal model for human hereditary and infectious diseases, as well as contributing to the understanding of the evolution of mammals. This effort led to the publication in 2007 of an initial draft of the genome of a Abyssinian cat called Cinnamon. The existence of a draft genome has led to the discovery of several cat disease genes, and even allowed the development of cat genetic fingerprinting for use in forensics.

United States presidential pets

History of White House dogs

In 1944 Franklin D. Roosevelt was running for his fourth term when rumors surfaced that his Scottish Terrier, Fala, had accidentally been left behind when visiting the Aleutian Islands. After allegedly sending back ships to rescue his dog, Roosevelt was ridiculed and accused of spending thousands of taxpayers’ dollars to retrieve his dog. At a speech following this Roosevelt said, "you can criticize me, my wife and my family, but you can't criticize my little dog. He's Scotch and all these allegations about spending all this money have just made his little soul furious."[2] What was later called the ‘Fala Speech’ reportedly turned the election around for Roosevelt.

Richard Nixon was accused of hiding a secret slush fund during his candidacy for vice president under Dwight D. Eisenhower in 1952. He gave a televised "Checkers speech" named after his cocker spaniel; denying he had a slush fund but admitted that, "there is one thing that I did get as a gift that I'm not going to give back.”[3] The gift was a black and white cocker spaniel, Checkers, given to his daughters. Although Nixon had been in danger of being kicked off the ticket, following his speech he received an increase in support and Mamie Eisenhower reportedly recommended he stay because he was “such a warm person”.[4][5]

Pets also featured on presidential elections. Herbert Hoover got a German shepherd dog during his campaign, King Tut, and pictures of him with his new dog were sent all across the United States during his campaign.

On the other hand, many believe that President Lyndon B. Johnson’s image was damaged because of his pets. He was photographed picking his two Beagle dogs named Him and Her up by their ears. Much of the public was outraged and animal lovers spoke out against it. Others however did not understand the purpose of the uproar and President Harry S. Truman was even reported to have said, "What the hell are the critics complaining about; that's how you handle hounds."[6] While it may not have hurt his presidency, this scandal shed a new light on the president's image.

List of Presidential pets
Barack Obama


* Bo - Portuguese Water Dog

George W. Bush

* Spot "Spotty" Fetcher (Mar 17, 1989 – Feb 21, 2004) - female English Springer Spaniel named after Scott Fletcher; Puppy of Millie; Euthanized after suffering a series of strokes.
* Barney - Scottish Terrier
* Miss Beazley (b. Oct 28, 2004) - Scottish Terrier; Nicknamed "Beazley Weazley"; 2005 birthday gift from George to his wife.
* India "Willie" - cat (b.1990-d.January 4, 2009)
* Ofelia - Longhorn cow (lives at Bush's Crawford ranch)

Bill Clinton

* Socks - Chelsea's cat (b.March 1989-d. February 20, 2009)
* Buddy - Bill's chocolate Labrador Retriever (b.1997-Jan 2, 2002)

George H. W. Bush

* Millie - Springer Spaniel
* Ranger - one of Millie's puppies[7][8]

Ronald Reagan

* Lucky - Bouvier des Flandres[9][10][11]
* Rex - Cavalier King Charles Spaniel [11][12]
* Victory - Golden Retriever [10][11]
* Peggy - Irish Setter [10][11]
* Taca - Siberian Husky [10][11]
* Fuzzy - Belgian sheepdog [10][11]
* Horses at Rancho del Cielo

Jimmy Carter

* Grits - Border Collie[8][13]; Given to his daughter Amy by her teacher, but quickly returned.[14]
* Lewis Brown - Afghan Hound[15]
* Misty Malarky Ying Yang, daughter Amy Carter's pet - Siamese cat[16]

Gerald Ford

* Liberty - Golden Retriever[8]
* Misty - (Liberty's puppy born in the White House)
* Shan - Siamese cat[17]

Richard Nixon

* Vicki - Poodle [8][18]
* Pasha - Terrier [8][18]
* King Timahoe - Irish Setter [8][18][19]
* Checkers - Cocker Spaniel (note: Checkers died while Nixon was vice-president, before becoming president, but had played a major role in his electoral career)

Lyndon B. Johnson

* Him and Her - beagles [8][20][21]
* Edgar- beagle [8][20][21]
* Blanco - white Collie [8][20][21]
* Freckles - Beagle [8]
* Yuki - mongrel [8][20][21]
* Hamsters and lovebirds[22]

John F. Kennedy

* Gaullie - Poodle[23]
* Charlie - Welsh Terrier [8]
* Tom Kitten - cat[24]
* Robin - canary[25]
* Bluebell and Marybelle - parakeets[26]
* Macaroni - pony [27]
* Tex and Leprechaun - ponies[28]
* Debbie and Billie - hamsters[29]
* Pushinka - mutt (gift of Russian premier, puppy of Soviet space dog Strelka)
* Shannon - Irish Cocker Spaniel [8]
* Wolf - (mutt, possibly part Wolfhound and Schnauzer)
* Clipper - German Shepherd[30]
* Butterfly, White Tips, Blackie, and Streaker - (offspring of Pushinka and Charlie)[8]
* Zsa Zsa - a rabbit
* Sardar - horse[31]

Pet first aid courses

Pet first aid courses are designed to equip pet owners with the information and skills needed to assess the situation, administer the appropriate care, or stabilize an injured pet until qualified veterinary care can be obtained. The course stresses preventive care (avoiding illness and injuries). Students usually learn the importance of immediate medical attention following an injury, how to properly restrain an injured animal, and the following:

* Preventing Illness and Injury
* Restraint and Transportation
* Shock
* Internal and External Bleeding
* Wounds and Infections
* Poisons
* Artificial Respiration and Airway Obstruction
* Abdominal Thrusts (Heimlich Manoeuvre)
* Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR)
* Administering Medications
* Parasites
* Eye and Ear Injuries
* Injuries from Heat and Cold
* Bone and Joint Injuries
* Dealing with Grief
* How to assemble a complete pet first aid kit

Pet adoption

Pet adoption usually refers to the process of taking guardianship of and responsibility for a pet that a previous owner has abandoned or otherwise abdicated responsibility for. Common sources for adoptable pets are

* Animal shelters, in the case of dogs also known as dog pounds
* Rescue groups
* Pets which are found out of captivity without identification, and which remain unclaimed by any owner
* Advertisements placed by individuals who are trying to find a new home for their pet
* Pets that have been abused or neglected and have been confiscated from the offending owner
* A fast growing source is online pet adoption.[citation needed] These sites have databases of pets, maintained by thousands of animal shelters, and are searchable by the public.

Dogs adopted from shelters are often referred to as shelter dogs or pound puppies; dogs adopted from rescue organizations are often called rescued dogs (not to be confused with search and rescue dogs). Shelters have put together informational websites to help the public choose the right dog for their family.
A cat wanting to be adopted

Pets are taken to animal shelters for many reasons.

* Breeding: Breeders are a leading cause of overpopulation because they usually produce more pets than they can sell and often produce pets that do not fit their desired breeding specifications, and must be gotten rid of.
* Death: Owner dies and no one in the family wants to (or can) keep the pet.
* Changed circumstances: Financial or living arrangements change drastically and people feel that they can no longer provide an appropriate home for the pet. This might also include someone having to move to a new living situation where pets are not allowed.
* Second thoughts: A pet was purchased after the spur of the moment decision or as a gift (frequently for Christmas). Some time afterward, owners discover that caring for the pet is much more work than expected, or requires more space or exercise than they are prepared to give.
* Lost pet: Pet leaves home or cannot find its way back, and the owner does not succeed in finding it.
* Health: Severe health problems make it impossible to have a dog in the house or impossible for the owner to care for the dog.
* Practice babies: Shelters use this term for animals that have been adopted by couples, and who are then abandoned when the couple splits up, or when a real baby comes along and they no longer have the time or inclination to care for their pet.
* Moving across borders: People leave the country; quarantine laws in some countries can be traumatic to pets and owners, so to avoid the stress, the pet is surrendered to an animal shelter.
* Allergies: Many owners claim to have developed allergies to their pets, or that their children have developed allergies to their pets.

People deal with their unwanted pets in many ways. Some people have the pet euthanized (also known as putting it down or putting it to sleep), although many veterinarians do not consider this to be an ethical use of their resources for young and healthy animals, while others argue that euthanasia is a more humane option than leaving a pet in a cage for very long periods of time. Other people simply release the pet into the wild or otherwise abandon it, with the expectation that it will be able to take care of itself or that it will be found and adopted. More often, these pets succumb to hunger, weather, traffic, or common and treatable health problems. Some people euthanize pets because of terminal illnesses or injuries, while others even do it for common health problems that they cannot, or will not, pay for treating. More responsible owners will take the pet to a shelter, or call a rescue organization, where it will be cared for properly until a home can be found. Homes cannot always be found, however, and euthanasia is often used for the excess animals to make room for newer pets, unless the place has a no-kill policy. The Humane Society of the United States estimates that 3-4 million dogs and cats are euthanized each year in the US because of a lack of homes.[citation needed] Animal protection advocates urge people to spay or neuter their pets and to adopt instead of buying animals in order to reduce the number of animals who have to be euthanized.
A rescued BBD (Big Black Dog) from Atlantic Canada

To help lower the number of animals euthanized, some shelters have developed a no-kill policy. These shelters keep their animals as long as it takes to find them new homes. City shelters rarely have this policy because of the large number of animals they receive. No-kill shelters are usually run by groups that have volunteers or individuals with enough space to foster pets until a permanent home can be found. However, many of these groups and individuals have a finite number of spaces available. This means they will not take in new animals unless a space opens up, although they will often take back pets that they have adopted out previously.

The central issue in the adoption of a pet is whether a new owner can provide a safe, secure, permanent home for the pet. Many shelters, pounds, and rescue organizations refuse to supply animals to people whom they judge cannot supply the animal with a suitable home.

A new owner might also face training challenges with a pet who has been neglected or abused. In those cases, the owner must be extra patient with the animal and provide it with the right care to help the pet overcome the past.

One problem shelters are fighting to overcome is what they term "Big Black Dog syndrome". Big black dogs (BBDs) are consistently the hardest dogs to place — even if they’re friendly, well trained, and in perfect health. This may be due to a number of factors, including fear stigma against certain breed types, attraction to ads and the fact that black dogs often do not photograph as well as lighter coated ones, and the fact that black dogs are often portrayed as aggressive in film and on television. Organizations have started campaigns to educate the public about BBD syndrome.