Companion dog

The Pomeranian started out as a large, sled-type dog and was downbred to become the small companion dog it is today.

Companion dog usually describes a dog that does not work, providing only companionship as a pet, rather than usefulness by doing specific tasks. Many of the toy dog breeds are used only for the pleasure of their company, not as workers. Any dog can be a companion dog, and many working types such as retrievers are enjoyed primarily for their friendly nature as a family pet, as are mixed breed dogs. The American Kennel Club also offers a Companion dog title for judged dog obedience competitions.

Working vs. companion

Some people and breed groups argue that any dog of a working dog type is inherently a working dog, while others say that only a dog being actively worked, either in a related field such as water trials for retrievers or herding trials for herding dogs, or in some other field that requires training and discipline, such as being assistance dogs or participating in dog agility, can be considered a working dog.Dogs that have been chosen for traits that make a convenient pet are generally smaller breeds, and the tradition of keeping pretty dogs for no purpose other than to be court decorations stems back thousands of years to Chinese nobility. The Pekingese and the Pug are both examples of canines chosen for their ability to be pets. In the case of the Pekingese, it was for their lion-like demeanor; for the Pugs, it was for their "lucky" wrinkles and their monkey-like impish behavior.

Other dogs that appear to be strictly a decorative or entertaining toy type of dog originally had jobs, such as the Lhasa Apso's job as a watch dog, or the delicate Yorkshire Terrier's exceptional ratting abilities.Until the late 19th century, toy dogs were strictly the keep of the wealthy, especially royalty, where small, charming dogs that did not work for their food were pure status symbols. Many, like the Maltese and the King Charles Spaniel, were often used as gifts between royal houses as well, as a symbol of good will. Small dogs like these got their name of lap dogs because the warm effect of a dog on one's lap was considered beneficial to one's health and digestion. Indeed, the 15th century name for companion and toy type dogs was "comforters".

In the late 19th century, some dogs were being bred for the combined purpose of being hardy and also being a good companion to children and families, rather than to refined ladies and men, as was the original task of the first companion dogs. Old breed types like the spaniels took over roles as house pets, as well as new breeds like the Boston Terrier. Though dogs and children always had a certain attraction to each other, there was an increased interest in the middle and even working classes for companion dogs that would chum around with their youngsters. This increased throughout the 20th century, where a dog breed's reputation as being a good family pet was a main barometer to their popularity. With increased popularity for dogs being used solely for family companionship, the first large breed companion dog, the Alsatian Shepalute, was created in 1988 in the United States.

Now in the 21st century, fewer and fewer dogs are being kept solely for the purpose of working. Indeed, some breed groups for dogs like Golden Retrievers worry that they are being bred more for conformation showing and companion dogs than as working dogs, and are encouraging people to work with their pets rather than simply keeping them for their good looks. There is a rising popularity for smaller companion breeds, especially in the USA. This trend is partly attributable to endorsement from celebrities such as Paris Hilton, who accessorize with "pocket dogs".

However among the top 50 breeds of dog the Hunting or large breed non-companion dogs still outnumber the smaller companion breeds in terms of numbers of dogs AKC registered each year(1). Additionally, within the top ten dogs registered each year positions 1, 2, 4, 5 and 7 as well as part of 8 (Standard Poodles) are held by working, hunting, or large non-companion breeds (for year 2005)(1). This suggests that many people still view large working dogs as companions as well as workers capable of excelling at both tasks instead of only one. The phenomena is repeated to an even greater extent in the UK kennel club (2), with most of the top twenty positions held by large or hunting breeds (2).

Australian Shepherd Color & Temperament

Color

Color variants: Black tricolor, red merle, blue merle, liver tricolor.

Aussie colors are black, red (sometimes called liver), blue merle (marbled black and gray), and red merle (marbled red and silver or buff); each of these colors may also have copper points and/or white markings in various combinations on the face, chest, and legs. A black or red dog with copper and white trim is called tricolor or tri, a black or red dog with white trim but no copper is called bicolor or bi. White should not appear on the body of the dog from topmost point of the shoulder blade to the tail. The ears should be covered by and completely surrounded by pigment other than white to decrease the risk for white related deafness. Eyes should also be surrounded by color, including the eye rim leather. Excessive white on the face and ears can place an individual dog at greater risk for sunburn and subsequent skin cancer. The wide variation of color combinations comes from the interaction between the a color allele, which is either black (B) dominant or red (b) recessive, and the dominant merle allele (M). Together, these provide four coat-color aspects that can appear in any combination:

• Black Tri, with tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Solid black dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Red (Liver) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Red dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Blue Merle (a mottled patchwork of gray and black) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Merle dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.
• Red Merle (a mottled patchwork of cream and liver red) with or without tan points and/or white markings on the face, collar, legs, chest, underbelly. Neither white nor tan points are required. Solid Merle dogs are equally desirable as ones with tan and/or white.

The merle allele, which produces a mingled or patchwork combination of dark and light areas, is the coat pattern most commonly associated with the breed. This merle (M) is dominant so that affected dogs (Mm) show the pigmentation pattern; however, when two merles are bred, there is a statistical risk that 25% of the offspring will end up with the two copies of the merle gene (homozygous). These dogs usually have a mostly white coat and blue irises, and are often deaf and/or blind. In this case, the deafness and blindness are linked to having two copies of the merle gene, which disrupts pigmentation and produces these health defects.

All black and blue merle dogs have black noses, eye rims, and lips. All red and red merle dogs have liver or brown noses, eye rims, and lips.

Red merle with copper points and one brown eye and one blue eye. Blue merle with copper points with blue eyes

There is also great variety in the Aussie's eye color. An early nickname for the breed was "ghost-eye dog". Aussie eyes may be any shade or hue of brown, or blue; they may have two different colored eyes, or even have bicolored or "split eyes" (for example, a half-brown, half-blue eye), which appear to be linked to the merle coloration. Merled eyes occur as well, where one color is mixed in and swirled with another. Any combination of eye color is acceptable in the breed standard, so long as the eyes are healthy. In general, however, black Aussies (self, bi-color or tri-color) tend to have brown eyes, while red (self, bi-color or tri-color) Aussies tend to have amber eyes, though these Aussies may also carry the blue eyed gene.

Tail

A hallmark of the breed is a short bobbed or docked tail in countries where docking is permitted. Some Aussies are born with naturally short bobbed tails (NBT), others with full long tails, and others with natural partial bobs, where the tail is midlength and appears stubby. Breeders have historically docked the tails when the puppies are born. Even without a tail, the wagging movement of the hind end still occurs.

Some Australian Shepherd breeders try to keep the tail on the dog for the natural look, which can still be shown in the breed ring.

Temperament

The breed is an energetic dog that requires exercise and enjoys working, whether it is learning and practicing tricks, competing in dog agility, or any other physically and mentally involving activity.

Dogs may show reserved and cautious guarding behaviors. They are kind, loving, and devoted to those they know. They are very loyal to their owners, and are rewarding dogs if treated well. Because the breed was developed to serve on the ranch, a job which includes being protective of its property, it is inclined to bark warnings about neighborhood activity, but it is not an obsessively barking dog.

The Aussie is intelligent, learns quickly, and loves to play. This means that a bored, neglected, unexercised Aussie may invent its own games, activities, and jobs, which to a busy owner might appear to be hyperactivity: for example, an Aussie may go from being at rest to running at top speed for several 'laps' around the house before returning to rest. Without something to amuse them, Aussies can become destructive. Aussies also do best with plenty of human companionship: they are often called "velcro" for their strong desire to always be near their owners and for their tendency to form intense, devoted bonds with select people.

The Australian Shepherd has a reputation as a highly intelligent and versatile stock dog with a range of working styles. A good working Aussie is quick, thoughtful, and easy with its stock. The ability for the breed to adapt to the situation and think for itself makes it an excellent all-around worker. For this reason the Aussie is often chosen to work unusual livestock such as ducks, geese, and commercially raised rabbits.

The Australian Shepherd can become extremely destructive if their energy is not directed in a positive way. These dogs require a minimum of 2-3 hours a day of play, exercise, and attention. The dogs thrive in rural, ranch like conditions, and need space to run and play in an urban setting.

Australian Ssepherd

History

The Australian Shepherd's history is vague, as is the reason for its misleading name. It is believed by some the breed has Basque origins in Spain and was used there by shepherds. What is known is that it developed in western North America in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

An Australian Shepherd from working lines; early breeders chose dogs for their abilities rather than conformation.

Breeds as we know them today did not exist before Victorian times, but local variations of the ancestors of current breeds came into America along with their owners and livestock. Included are some that are now extinct or that have merged into other breeds. These may have included British herding dogs, as well as dogs from Germany and Spain. For many centuries, shepherds had interest in dogs' working abilities rather than their appearance. As a result, over time, shepherds interbred dogs that they believed would produce better workers for the given climate and landscape. In the eastern U.S., terrain and weather conditions were similar to that of Europe, however, so the existing imported breeds and their offspring worked well there.

In the American West, conditions were quite different. During the early introduction of sheep into America, the Spanish dogs that accompanied the flocks proved well suited for their job in the new, wild and dangerous land. They were highly valued on the open range for their ability to herd and protect their charges from predators. In the arid and semiarid areas inhabited by early Spanish settlers, temperatures reached extremes of hot and cold, and fields varied in altitude from sea level to the higher, rougher Sierra Nevada and similar mountain ranges. The ranchers in these areas often pastured livestock on remote ranges. They preferred more aggressive herding dogs that served in the capacity of herder and guardian.

With the 1849 California Gold Rush, a massive migration occurred to the west coast, and along with easterners came flocks of sheep and their eastern herding dogs; from the southwest came people and Spanish. But it was just as effective to bring sheep in by ship, and in they came, including flocks from Australia and other regions, along with shepherds and their own herding breeds.

Dogs from Australia had already begun to be selected and bred for climates and terrains that were often similar to California.

It is not clear where the name "Australian" came from, although it is possible that many of the dogs coming from Australia were blue merle and the adjective "Australian" became associated with any dogs of that coat color.

Recent history

Development of the breed began in Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Nevada and the Pacific Northwest. The breed's foundation bloodlines are depicted in the Australian Shepherd Genealogy Chart showing the relationship between the early families of dogs.

Selective breeding for many generations focused on aspects of the dog that enabled it to function as an effective stockdog in the American west. It had to handle severe weather; have plenty of speed, athleticism, energy, and endurance; and be intelligent, flexible, and independent, while remaining obedient. The actual foundation for the Australian Shepherd was established between the 1940s and the early 1970s, when the Australian Shepherd Club of America was formed and the registry was started. They became popular as performing dogs in rodeos. Their stunts and skills earned them places in several Disney films, including Run Appaloosa Run and Stub: The Greatest Cowdog in the West.

Activities

A blue merle in a dog agility competition

Like other herding breeds, these dogs excel at many dog sports, especially herding, dog agility, frisbee, and flyball. The dog has a stride in which its front and back legs cross over, making for an appearance of "on the edge" speed. The dogs instinctively use a "pounce" position to deal with cattle trying to kick them. They also have strong hips and legs, allowing for fast acceleration and high jumping, sometimes as high as 4 ft (1.3m).

An Australian Shepherd about to jump for a frisbee

An Australian Shepherd named Pockets is credited as being the oldest dog to earn a title in AKC history, having earned the Rally Novice title at the age of 15 years, 5 weeks.

Australian Shepherd

Australian Shepherd: BREED BOX Country: United States Size: 35-70lb(16-32kg),18-23in(46-58cm) Temperament: Loyal Grooming: Once every couple of weeks Recognition: FCI,AKC,ANKC,KC (UK),CKC,UKC

History - Although the name implies otherwise, the Australian Shepherd did not originate in Australia. According to popular speculation, the breed began in the 1800’s when the Basque people from Europe settled in Australia. The Basque brought with them their sheepdogs. Over time, the Basque migrated to North America and the breed caught on with the American farmers. Many cross-breedings were undertaken before the best of the breed was produced; a dog able to endure the rough terrain and inhospitable climate while herding livestock.

Because of the dog’s high energy level and intelligence, they found their way into the entertainment field and started working rodeos as trick dogs. Today, you can find Australian Shepherds working with clowns under the big top delighting audiences worldwide.

Appearance - The Australian Shepherd is a medium sized dog. He is well balanced, slightly longer than tall and comes in all colors. Breed standards allow for blue eyes or one blue and one brown eye or marbled eyes in the red and blue variety.

Description - The Australian Shepherd is happiest when he is working at herding. This is what he was bred for. Many people, who are taken by this breed and try to get the dog to conform to apartment life, end up with a dog with behavior issues, because this dog needs to work. If you are considering an Australian Shepherd for your home or apartment, you also need to include Obedience classes, and perhaps an agility training course.

With their strong herding instincts, Australian Shepherds will herd small children and other pets. But given the right set of circumstances; an active, stimulating life. The Australian Shepherd will prove himself a tireless match against restless livestock and will be completely devoted to his master.

This dog will not do well being placed in exile inside a kennel or a backyard. The Australian Shepherd is a true pack animal, and he needs either human or canine companionship. Otherwise, he becomes withdrawn and lethargic.

The Australian Shepherd comes in various colors, and the coat is spotted, with patches of darker color running through it. The legs are usually brown or beige.

Ideal Owners: The Australian Shepherd is suited to familes with active children, or owners who have the time to go for a run with their dog

Coat Color: Red, Liver, Blue-Merle, Black

Life Expectancy: 13 years

Australian Shepherd Picture

Cat Care

Cats make wonderful pets. Before owning a cat, you should make sure to have a basic understanding of how to take care of a cat. Proper feeding, bathing, grooming and exercise of your cat are very important and will help your cat live a long and happy life.

There are a number of cat care tips we recommend for optimal cat care:

Feeding

• Provide your cat with a fresh supply of water throughout the day.
• If you make a change to your cat's diet, do so as gradually as possible.
• If moist pet food goes uneaten for two hours, refrigerate it.

Bathing

• Place a small towel over the side of the tub to provide a surface for your cat to cling onto. Hold the cat with one hand and lather with your other hand.
• Water temperature should be approximately 100 degrees.
• Wash your cat's head, ears and neck first to prevent any fleas that are on your cat from taking refuge there while you clean the rest of it's body.

Grooming

• Brush your cat daily to minimize shedding.
• For problems with matted fur, use your fingers to work out the tangles.
• Trim claws by pressing the paw to expose the nails. Make sure to use clippers for cats.

Here are a few additional cat care tips for you to keep in mind:

Care of Your Cat's Ears

Cleaning your cat's ears should be done weekly. Doing so will ensure your cat stays healthy and happy for years to come. Use a small amount of veterinary ear cleaner and a cotton ball.

Care Of Your Cat's Eyes

The wax-like secretions that forms in the corner of their eyes should be gently cleared away to prevent irritation. Use a damp cotton ball to clean around the cat's eye. Take extra care not to touch the eyeball.

Exercise

Exercise is an important part of cat care. Regular exercise helps your cat maintain body tone, muscle and keeps it feeling younger longer. Try to play with your cat every day to make sure it gets enough exercise.

Proper cat care is a very important component of responsible cat ownership. We hope these tips are helpful to you and that you are now better familiar with how to take care of a cat.

Things to Consider Before You Adopt a Dog

"Select" is defined in the dictionary by such phrases as "a preferred choice" or "carefully chosen". Selecting the family dog should be a well-researched and carefully soul-searched activity. Are you and your family willing to make a 10 - 15 year commitment to this sentient being in sickness and in health, for richer and for poorer, for as long as all shall live? Let's pose some of the questions family members should discuss before obtaining a dog.

How Old Are the Members of My Family?

If the youngsters in your household are under seven years old, they are usually not developmentally suited for puppies 5 months old and under or toy-sized (under 15 pounds) dogs of any age. Puppies have ultra sharp "milk teeth" and toenails and often teethe on and scratch children, resulting in unintentional injury to the child. The puppy becomes something to be feared rather than loved.

Toy dogs are fine-boned, touch-sensitive creatures that do not weather rough or clumsy handling well. They break relatively easily and are quicker to bite than their larger boned, mellower relatives.Unless your children are unusually sensitive, low-key, respectful individuals, a medium-to-large sized dog over 5 months old is usually the safer choice. Regardless of size, all interactions between small children and dogs should be monitored by a responsible adult. When there is no one to watch over them, they should be separated.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, are there frail elderly or physically challenged individuals in the household? If so, strong vigorous adolescent dogs are not a wise idea. No aging hips or wrists are safe from these yahoos. People who were one-breed fans throughout their lives may one day find that their favorite breed demands more than they can physically handle. The new dog must fit the current physical capabilities of his keepers with an eye toward what the next 10-15 years will bring.

Who Will Be the Dog's Primary Caretaker?

A decade or so back, this was an easy question to answer-- Mom. She stayed home and cooked, cleaned and raised the family dog. Most families these days do not have that option. All adults have to go to work and the kids head off to school. This leaves the family dog to be sandwiched in between lessons and sports and household chores and so on. One parent should be designated Primary Caretaker to make sure the dog does not get lost in the shuffle.Some parents bow to the pressure their children put on them to get a dog. The kids promise with tears in their eyes that they will religiously take care of this soon-to-be best friend. The truth of the matter is, during the 10 - 15 year lifespan of the average dog, your children will be growing in and out of various life stages and the family dog's importance in their lives will wax and wain like the Moon. You cannot saddle a child with total responsibility for the family dog and threaten to get rid of it if the child is not providing that care. It is not fair to child or dog.

Choosing the family dog should include input from all family members with the cooler-headed, more experienced family members' opinions carrying a bit more weight. The family dog should not be a gift from one family member to all the others. The selection experience is one the entire family can share. Doing some research and polling each family member about what is important to them in a dog will help pin down what you will be looking for. Books like Daniel Tortora's THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU or The ASPCA Complete Guide to Dogs can be tremendously helpful and can warn you away from unsuitable choices for your family's circumstances.

Getting a Tick Off of Your Dog

If your dog spends time outside in areas where ticks like to hang out, a tick check should be part of your daily routine.Even the best repellents may not prevent these parasites from latching onto your pooch. And since it can take 24 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit an infection to its host, it's important to promptly and properly remove these parasites.

Check, please!

First, run your fingers slowly over your dog's entire body. If you feel a bump or swollen area, check to see if a tick has burrowed there. Don't limit your search to your dog's torso: check between his toes, under his armpits, the insides of his ears, and around his face and chin.Don't limit tick checks to your canine family members. Dogs can't directly transmit tick-borne illnesses to people, but ticks can move from host to host. A tick may enter your home on your dog's back and move on to another pet or human, or a tick could hitch a ride on you and then move on to one of your pets. A good tick prevention strategy includes checking all family members for these parasites, especially after outdoor activities in wooded, leafy, or grassy areas.

Is it a tick?

Ticks can be black, brown, or tan, and they have eight legs. Ticks are arachnids and related to spiders, not insects. They can also be tiny—some tick species are only as large as the head of a pin—so look carefully.In some areas of the United States where there is no real winter, ticks are active all year, not just in the summer months. Even in areas where there has been a killing frost with the approach of winter, ticks can become active again if the weather turns warm for more than a day or two.

If you find a tick on your dog, don't panic! Follow these quick and easy steps to safely remove the pest.

Step 1: Get your gear

• Pair of gloves
• Clean pair of tweezers or a commercial tick remover
• Antiseptic
• Isopropyl alcohol

Step 2: Remove the tick
Wear gloves while removing the tick to avoid contact with your skin (ticks can transmit diseases to people, too).

If you're using tweezers:

• Grasp the tick as close to your dog’s skin as possible, but be gentle! Try not to pinch your dog's skin.
• Pull outward in a straight, steady motion, making sure that you’ve removed the entire tick, since anything left behind could lead to an infection.

If you're using a tick remover:

• Gently press the remover against your dog's skin near the tick.
• Slide the notch of the remover under the tick.
• Continue sliding the remover until the tick is caught in the small end of the notch and is pulled free. (The tick will remain in the bowl of the remover.)

Step 3: Store the evidence

Drop the tick into a small container that contains isopropyl alcohol (the alcohol will quickly kill the tick), and mark the date on the container. If your dog begins displaying symptoms of a tick-borne illness, your veterinarian may want to identify or test the tick